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Drive to the Clouds — Part II  
If it had not been for Ashok's keen eyesight and a big bright fish painted in a signboard, we most probably would have missed the neat restaurant tucked away on the road leading to Shanti Stupa. La Pizzeria gets the award for the restaurant with the best set-up and ambience in my book. It was an open-air restaurant with a fire burning brightly in the middle, showering its warmth to one and all gathered. Set beside a farmland beyond which lay the mountains, La Pizzeria was buzzing with activity that night.

There were excited people everywhere, some recounting the scenes they had seen so far and some sitting with a big smile on their face, all the while wondering when their plate of fish and chips or lasagna would arrive. We were amused watching the two waiters dart from table to table attending to the customers, and I wondered how often it was when they goofed up the orders. The food at La Pizzeria was not bad at all. For the second night on the trot, I treated myself to a plate of Trout fish, prepared and laid out fantastically with adequate garnishing. I remember the moon was out with all its splendor and the air smelled rich with life. Oh! We were so happy that night.

Day 6, To Pangong
'You know Raj, there is no sight in the world more serene and beautiful than that of the sun rising over a mammoth snow-capped mountain', said Ashok as we watched dawn break from our vantage point on the hillock which overlooked the lone runway of Leh airport. Friends at Delhi had advised us not to miss an opportunity of capturing in images the flight of the first commercial airline of the day making its way over the mountain and our heads, before it touched down on the tarmac. This was apparently a must do for all shutterbugs like us.

'There it is', I shouted an hour later as the dot on the horizon became prominent. With camera set on the tripod, Ashok captured the descent of the Jet Airways Boeing 737-800 jet as it flew right over our heads and landed with a screech on the runway and taxied towards the terminal.

Post breakfast, we took to the treacherous mountainous roads of the Himalayas and made our way to Pangong Lake. Located 16okms from Leh towards the Chinese border, Pangong Lake is the world's highest salt-water lake, situated at an altitude of 14,256 feet above sea level. The lake is strategically located and the drive takes one through various army installations.

We were stopped at three checkpoints where we handed over the requisite travel documents. We drove over narrow meandering roads that presented a clear view of the stunning snow topped peaks, and over the third highest motorable road in the world, the mighty Changla Top. Changla Top at 17,350 feet above sea level is under army control, and as we expected had a small teashop and temple with lines and lines of prayer flags. I couldn't help but feel sorry for the shy Gurkha soldiers stationed there. I wonder what it must be like to live on that top for months and months in near freezing temperature, without having anything to do but rub the palms and wait for the first snow of winter to fall, when everyone is relocated. I almost felt guilty for taking the men in uniform for granted. There is so much that we owed them.

Motor bikers are a very popular sight in this part of the world. After Changla Top and all the way until Pangong Lake, we came across a stream of bikers, dusty and haggard, and yet looking resplendent in their leather bomber jackets, black leather gloves, boots, denims and flashy helmets.

It was quite a sight seeing those Bullet riders throwing care to the wind, and racing each other on the slopes, with smoke bellowing out of the exhaust pipes, tyres stirring up a dust storm of sorts, and the Goliath of an engine piercing the silence of the mountains with its thunderous roar clapping and reverberating.

I could only imagine the thrill and adrenaline rush those blokes were experiencing. A little part of me was envious of them I had to agree. Beside bikers, we also happened to see a gang of European cyclists pedaling like they have never pedaled before and having the time of their lives.

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